Allen Meadows - Score: 91 (2019 March)

This is maturing into a really lovely wine as there is some evident evolution to the still pretty mix of violet, red and black fruits, earth, herb and game-suffused nose that gives way to textured, sappy, firm and intense flavors that are complex, long and utterly delicious though the finish does reflect a discreet note of acid tang. For my taste this still needs a few more years of cellar time but if given sufficient air in a decanter, the '04 BM could be enjoyed now. Note that this is not an especially big wine by the typical standards of the Roumier Bonnes Mares but it largely avoids the greenness prevalent in some examples of the '04 vintage.